Some sources claim that a shortage of
cooking fuel led to the development
and rapid spread of the quick-cooking
kebab. Today, kebabs are found across
the eastern Mediterranean and the
Middle East, stretching as far as
Central and South Asia.
TURKEY
Meşhur Köfteci Ali Usta
Yali Caddesi, Tekirdağ; +90 282 261 1621
This popular kebab house has been serving up the
regional specialty, bugu kebabı, along with the town’s
celebrated Tekirdağ köftesi spicy meatballs,
in its promenade-facing restaurant since 1966. The
food is authentic and competitively priced.
Dibek
Hakkı Paşa Meydanı 1, Göreme;--
www.dibektraditionalcook.com
The Cappadocian town of Göreme is famous for its
köfte and testı kebap, and Dibek serves both along
with other enticing Cappadocian dishes in a cozy,
atmospheric 16th-century building.
Kebapçi İskender
Ünlü Caddesi 7, Bursa; +90 224 221 4615
Founded in 1867, and something of an institution,
this kebab house takes its name from the inventor of
the İskender kebab, from whom the current owners
claim descent. It serves the İskender along with
Bursa’s other famous dish, the inegöl köftesi.
IRAN
Akin to a kind of national dish, kebabs
dominate most Iranian menus. They are served
principally in the form of shish kebabs, on
bread or with steamed rice, or as kubide (like
köfte). Grilled tomatoes, sliced raw onion, and
sumac spice are typical accompaniments.
Ferdosi Sonnati
Ferdosi St., Tehran; +98 21 6671 4503
With a firm local following, the Ferdosi prepares
fresh, seasonal, and carefully cooked classic Persian
dishes (including kebabs) at excellent price . Try the
homemade dugh, a refreshing sour yogurt drink
that’s the traditional kebab accompaniment.
The Khayyam Traditional Restaurant
Khayyam St., Tehran; +98 21 5580 0760
After a trip around the Tehran bazaar, there’s
no better escape than to the Khayyam, lying on
the bazaar’s western periphery. Set in an early
18th-century building, this East-Asian-style oasis
is atmospheric, cool, and relaxed and offers classic
Iranian food and drink from a menu that’s more
eclectic than most in Tehran.
Sofre Khane Sonnati Sangalag
Park-e Shahr, Tehran; +98 21 6673 1075
Conveniently situated close to Tehran’s Golestan
Palace and city museums, the Sangalag makes a
perfect pit stop while sightseeing. Set in the Park-e
Shahr, it’s tranquil and verdant and serves good
home-prepared traditional fare, including kebabs
and salads, at decent prices.
INDIA
India’s kakori kebabs are spicy minced lamb or goat rolls, grilled on skewers; the classic shish kebabs take their name from the Turkish word for “skewer”.
Despite the significant rate of vegetarianism in
India, meat kebabs (mainly chicken, lamb, and
sometimes goat) have long featured in Indian
cuisine, particularly in tandoori cooking and
the meat-dominated Mughlai cuisine of
northern India. The famous Arab traveler
Ibn Battuta recorded a description of kebabs
when he visited India in the 14th century.
Karim’s
168/2 Jha House Basti, Nizamuddin West, Delhi
Karim’s may seem simple and unremarkable, but it’s
been serving first-rate Mughlai cuisine for nearly a
century and is much loved locally for its succulent
and subtly spiced kebabs. It’s located down a side
street opposite the south gate of the Jama Masjid
(Great Mosque). Try the burrah (marinated lamb
kebab) and finish with a creamy firni – a sweet rice
pudding with cardamom, almonds, and pistachios.
Tunday Kababi
Aminabad Rd., Lucknow; +91 522 552 4046
Although Lucknow is famous for its sophisticated
Mughlai cuisine and its variety and quality of kebabs,
the Tunday has established a near-iconic status both
at home and abroad. Its mutton kebab, made of
ground or minced lamb, is legendary. The kathi kebab,
cooked on skewers in a tandoor oven, is also great.
Khyber
145 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort, Mumbai;
www.khyberrestaurant.com
Counted among Mumbai’s top tables, the Khyber
specializes in the meat-dominated Punjabi cuisine,
including expertly flavored and cooked kebabs and
köfte. With its reputation for fine dining, impeccable
service, and hip decor, the Khyber boasts a fervent
following among local celebrities, diplomats, and the
business community.
PAKISTAN
In contrast to India, Pakistan’s cuisine is firmly
rooted in the carnivore camp, and kebabs
feature frequently on menus, including seekh
or tikka kebabs (shish kebabs), shawarma
(doner kebab), and a few Pakistani variations
such as chapli kebabs – spicy, minced mutton
or beef patties shaped like a slipper (chapli)
served with yogurt, rice, salad, and naan bread.
Gowal Mandi
Off Railway Road, Lahore
The network of lanes just south of Railway Road in
Lahore is known locally as “Food Street” for its rows
of stands selling simple, fresh, and skillfully cooked
Pakistani fare. At sunset, the roads close and all the
locals congregate. It’s a great place to try Pakistani
dishes at rock-bottom prices in a great atmosphere.
Village Garden Restaurant
Palace Cinema Bldg., Karachi; +92 21 521 2880
Karachi’s oldest surviving restaurant also boasts one
of the capital’s best locations: an attractive and
breezy garden filled with birdsong and shade where
you can watch your seekh kebabs spit, sizzle, and
emit tantalizing smells on the large outdoor grills.
GREECE
Some claim that the kebab originated in Greece
in ancient times, alleging that writers such as
Homer, Aristophanes, and Aristotle made
reference to it in their works. The Greek gyros
is akin to the Turkish döner kebap, although
pork is often used, and souvlaki is akin to
shish kebabs. They are as universally popular
as their Turkish counterparts.
To Etsi
Nikoforos Fokas 2, near the White Tower,
Thessaloniki; +30 2310 222 469
Simple, basic, and garishly decorated, the To Etsi in
Thessaloniki has won a cult following locally for its
succulent souvlaki stuffed into freshly baked pita
bread, served with crunchy salad and generous
dollops of homemade hot, spicy, or garlicky sauces.
Varoulko
Pireos 80, Gazi, Athens; www.varoulko.gr
As famous for its startling views of the Acropolis
as for the startling modern-Greek creations of the
country’s only Michelin-star-rated chef, Lefteris
Lazarou, the Varoulko is a must for the foodie.
Seafood is the specialty, but the meat dishes
don’t disappoint. Book a rooftop table.
On the Menu in Turkey
There are dozens of varieties of kebab in
Turkey. Many are local adaptations named
after the place of origin or their founder.
Adana kebap : Minced lamb spiced with
chili peppers, garlic, parsley, paprika,
pepper, and sumac, molded into a sausage
and grilled over coals on a special long, flat
skewer. The meat is served on top of
warm strips of pita bread with a salad of
tomatoes, peppers, and sliced onions
tossed in sumac.
Buğu kebap : Meat is steamed in a sealed
terra-cotta pot along with pearl onions,
garlic, thyme, sumac, and cumin.
Çiğ kebap : Raw, ground lamb pounded
with bulgur wheat and onions, spiced with
cinnamon, cloves, paprika, and pepper.
Döner kebap Compressed meat (chicken
or lamb) grilled on an upright and rotating
skewer and sliced onto pita bread
Erciyes kebap : Lamb served on a bed
of thinly sliced sautéed potatoes with
garlic and yogurt.
Fıstıklı kebap : Suckling lamb minced
and mixed with herbs and pistachios.
İskender (Bursa) kebap Lamb döner
layered on a bed of pita bread, topped
with tomato sauce and tangy yogurt, then
drizzled with lightly browned butter.
Patlıcan kebap : Minced or cubed lamb
grilled on skewers with eggplant.
Şiş kebap : Cubed lamb or chicken
marinated in oil, garlic, onion, and black
pepper grilled on a skewer with onions
and peppers.
Tavuk şiş kebap : Chicken cubes
marinated in olive oil, thyme, or rosemary,
crushed garlic, black pepper, grated onion,
and yogurt, grilled on a skewer over coals.
Testı kebap : Lamb or chicken with
vegetables (often onion and mushroom),
slow-cooked in a sealed terra-cotta pot
that is broken open at the dining table.
Tokat kebap : Cubed lamb grilled on a
skewer along with potato, eggplant,
tomato, and garlic.--
Urfa kebap : Minced lamb, mildly spiced
with chili pepper, garlic, paprika, pepper,
and sumac, shaped like a sausage and
grilled over coals; served with onion salad.
Yoğurtlu şiş kebap : Grilled skewers of
cubed lamb marinated in oil, garlic, and
onion, along with grilled, skewered ground
lamb köfte, served on a bed of butter-fried
pita bread, sprinkled with sumac, salt, and
thyme, and topped with fresh tomato
sauce, yogurt, and fried strips of eggplant.
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