As the gamelan orchestra’s haunting chimes fade into the early evening dusk, it’s clear that the
shaggy-haired, good-natured barong has once again failed to defeat Rangda, a long-nailed witch
who has been threatening the kingdom. The audience pours out of the temple theater and into
the street, to be snared by the tempting scent of satay sticks charring over a roadside grill.