As the call to prayer rises from its minarets, Isfahan’s famous mosque, Masjid-e Emam, glitters in
the late afternoon sun. In the nearby bazaar, the air is filled with the scent of spices, and toward
the city’s edge an ancient fire temple is silhouetted against low, jagged hills. There is no more
atmospheric place to sample khoresh-e fesenjan, one of the most opulent dishes in Persian cuisine.