Napoleon sacked and burned San Sebastián in 1813, but the resort that rose from the ashes is
the epitome of refined hedonism. Royalty and movie stars bask in the sizzle of the Spanish sun,
while San Sebastián’s Basque chefs demonstrate the innovative Modern Spanish cuisine that has
raised the bar for European gastronomy, much as Picasso rewrote the rules for modern art.
main beach, nestles between the
twin headlands of Monte Urgull and
Monte Igueldo. Its 4-mile (6-km)
swath of white sand makes the city
the pearl of the Basque coast. Once the
sun goes down, beach-goers wash off their tanning
lotion, dress for dinner, and prepare for an evening at
the tables of San Sebastián’s world-class restaurants.
The city has more Michelin three-star establishments
per capita than Paris or Tokyo, and a host of wonderful
cafés, taverns, and bars where the quality of the food
belies the humble surroundings.
San Sebastián is an intriguing mix of the old and
the new. The broad avenues of the sophisticated
modern town, lined with upmarket shops and
restaurants, give way to the atmospheric streets of the
old town beneath the base of Monte Urgull. Centered
around the ancient Plaza de la Constitución, these
narrow lanes hide treats such as the church of Santa
Maria del Coro, a masterly example of Basque Baroque.
The old town’s sheltered harbor curls around a series of
stone embankments, where a small fishing fleet
unloads its rich daily catch of bream, sardines,
anchovies, shrimp, spider crab, mullet, monkfish,
and hake. The Basques are legendary fishermen and
inventive cooks – Basque cuisine was a culinary
revolution waiting to happen. With its emphasis on
perfect ingredients artfully presented, Basque cooking
proved the perfect foil to French nouvelle cuisine.
