Meze are found throughout the Middle
East and Mediterranean, albeit under
different names or forms. The fashion
is believed to have spread from the
Sultan’s court in Istanbul at the height
of the Ottoman empire.
ISTANBUL
Sofyalı 9 inexpensive
Sofyalı Sokak 9, Tünel; +90 212 245 0362
In an area famous for its meyhanes (taverns), this
is one of Istanbul’s best, serving superb meze and
traditional Anatolian cooking in attractive surroundings
and a warm, vibrant, and buzzing atmosphere. Try
the specialty, arnavut ciğeri (fried lamb liver).
Asitane expensive
Kariye Camii Sokak 6, Edirnekapı;
www.asitanerestaurant.com
Just south of the Chora Church, upmarket Asitane
has established a specialty in and a reputation for
fine Ottoman cuisine. Its dedicated chefs source
original recipes from the kitchens of the old
Ottoman palaces and employ original methods
of preparation and cooking for all their dishes,
including their sumptuous meze.
Mikla expensive
Marmara Pera Hotel, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15,
Tepebaşı; www.miklarestaurant.com
Considered the city’s top table, Mikla is overseen by
local “celebrity chef” Mehmet Gürs, who creates
stunning modern Mediterranean dishes with Turkish
ingredients, cooking methods, and flavors.
Spectacular views, impeccable service, and
sumptuous decor complement the food.
SYRIA
Syrian cuisine is one of the oldest, richest,
and most sophisticated in the world, and the
range of meze found in its restaurants reflects
this, combining a wide range of raw ingredients
with centuries-old culinary know-how.
Bab Al-Hara inexpensive
Sharia Al-Qaimariyya, Damascus; +963 11 541 8644
Set deep in the old city close to the Umayyad
Mosque, Al-Hara boasts a fervent local following for
its fresh, flavorsome, and authentic cooking, at
excellent prices, served in an old courtyard house.
The meze and grills are a particular specialty.
Bazaar Al-Charq moderate
Between Sharia Al-Mutanabi and Sharia Hammam
Al-Tat, Aleppo; +963 21 224 9120
The cellar-like Charq is cozy, atmospheric, and
welcoming. The kitchen offers an impressive variety
of Damascene and Aleppine specialties, including a
wide range of meze; the heavenly, smoky baba
ghanoush (eggplant purée) is a must-try. There’s
usually live traditional music in the evening.
Al-Khawali expensive
Maazanet al-Shahim, Damascus; +963 11 222 5808
Considered one of Syria’s best restaurants and
counting its president among its customers,
Al-Khawali is a great choice for sampling meze
Syrian-style. Set in a restored Damascene courtyard
house dating to 1368, it combines beautiful
surroundings with first-class cooking and service.
Sissi House expensive
Just off Saahat Al-Hattab, Jdeideh, Aleppo;
www.sissihouse.com
Considered a cut above in decor, ambience, and
cooking, Sissi House attracts a well-heeled and
glamorous local following. It specializes in Aleppine
cuisine, beautifully prepared, cooked, and served,
including a selection of over 50 meze. Classical
Arabic music is often played live.
LEBANON
For many people, Lebanese cuisine forms their
main experience of meze, aided undoubtedly
by the large Lebanese communities and their
eateries found in many Western cities. In
Lebanon itself, eating out is an important part
of social interaction.
Abdel Wahab moderate
Rue Abdel Wahab El-Inglizi, Achrafiye, Beirut;
+961 1 200 552
With tables spread around the pretty garden and
high-ceilinged rooms of an old Ottoman villa, the
Abdel Wahab is an atmospheric and romantic place
for dinner à deux. The lavish buffets are famous and
include a wide range of meze, among them several
varieties of heavenly hummus.
La Tabkha moderate
Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh, Beirut; +961 1 579 000
Modern, minimalist, and contemporary, La Tabkha
serves a terrific array of modern Lebanese dishes
with a touch of French influence, including an
excellent lunch-time meze buffet that changes daily.
Shahrazad moderate
6th Floor, Centre Commercial de Yaghi & Simbole,
off Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar, Baalbek; +961 8 371 851
The location may lack style or atmosphere, but
it’s the spectacular views over Baalbek’s Roman
ruins that draw a loyal following, along with the
simple but hearty and well-prepared home
cooking, including a good selection of delicious,
freshly prepared meze.
EGYPT
At one time part and parcel of the Ottoman
empire and today part of the Middle East,
Egypt has long been influenced by both
regions’ cooking. It has also developed its
own distinct versions of meze, using local
ingredients and cooking traditions.
Samakmak moderate
42 Qar Ras At Tin, Alexandria; +20 3 481 1560
Established by a former belly dancer, the Samakmak
is a cozy, intimate, and atmospheric restaurant. It is
best known for its excellent, imaginatively prepared
fish and seafood dishes, which include an unusual
and very good meze selection.
Abou El Sid expensive
157 Sharia 26 July, Zamalek, Cairo; +20 2 2735 9640
Styled like an Orientalist boudoir-restaurant-bar, the
Abou El Sid is one of Cairo’s eating hot spots. Diners
recline on cushions pasha-style around low brass
tables while tucking into well-prepared traditional
Egyptian cooking, including mouthwatering meze.
Reservations are essential.
CYPRUS
Though unquestionably influenced by Turkey
and Greece as well as the Middle East, Cyprus
nonetheless proudly possesses its own
culinary traditions. The Cypriots love and
value their food and keep up a vigorous
tradition of meze.
Fetta’s inexpensive
Ioanni Agroti 33, Pafos; +357 2693 7822
One of Cyprus’s top traditional restaurants, Fetta’s
bases its reputation on enduring culinary values:
quality ingredients, locally sourced, and simple but
sound home cooking passed down the generations.
The meze platter of grilled meats is a specialty.
Zanettos Taverna inexpensive
Trikoupi 65, Lefkosia; +357 2276 5501
One of the oldest surviving tavernas in the Old City,
Zanettos is a bit of an institution and retains a loyal
local following. Though located in a rather lugubrious
part of town, it’s worth the journey: the meze are
superb and the atmosphere convivial and fun.
On the Menu in Turkey
Acı domates ezmesi : Spicy tomato dip.
Ançüz : Pickled anchovies.
Arnavut ciğeri : Diced, fried lamb liver with raw
onion, sumac, chili pepper, and chopped parsley.
Barbunya pilaki : Salad of red beans.
Beyaz peynir : White sheep or goat cheese.
Cacık Yogurt with grated cucumber and mint,
served either as a kind of soup or as a dip.
Çerkez tavuğu : Literally, “Circassian chicken” –
chicken, walnuts, and bread flavored with garlic.
Deniz börülcesi : Samphire dressed with olive oil,
garlic, and lemon and traditionally served with fish
and seaood meze.
Enginar : Boiled artichoke.
Ezme salatası : Tomato and pepper dip.
Fasulye piyazı : Salad of navy beans.
Fava or fava salatası : A puréed fava bean dip.
Haydari : Yogurt dip made with garlic and mint.
Kabak çiçeği dolması : Stuffed zucchini flowers.
Kısır Salad : made of spiced bulgur wheat.
Lakerda : Tuna fish, sliced and salted.
Mercimek köftesi : Spicy balls made of red lentils
and bulgur wheat traditionally served at weddings
and family feasts.
Midye dolması : Stuffed mussels.
Patates köftesi : Cheese and potato croquettes.
Patlıcan biber tava : Fried eggplant and sweet
green peppers with tomato sauce and chili pepper.
Patlıcan ezmesi : Roast eggplant with yogurt.
Patlıcan kızartması or salatası : Fried eggplant
and tomato, served warm or as a salad.
Sarımsaklı havuç : Grated carrot in a garlicky yogurt.
Semizotu salatasi : Salad of purslane in a yogurt
and garlic dressing.
Sigara böreği : Cigar-shaped pastries deep-fried
and stuffed with cheese.
Yaprak dolması : Vine leaves stuffed with pine
nuts, rice, and herbs.
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